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Writer's pictureAli Dobbs

Veni, Vidi, Vino: Eating & Drinking in the Eternal City

If I had to tally up all the money I spent on food while I was abroad, it would probably be enough money to pay rent for a few months. I wish I were kidding. But I have absolutely no regrets because the food I ate was AMAZING and I would seriously eat it all again if I could.

Since I was based in Rome for four months, I had plenty of opportunity to try tons of restaurants, and I have finally got around to compiling a list of the best. Next time you find yourself visiting the Eternal City (as it's called), check out some of these suggestions and you will NOT be disappointed, I guarantee it.


Carlo Menta: An Abroad Student Staple


Three euro for an entire pizza??? Five euro for a hot plate of pasta???? It's no wonder that nearly every student in Rome knows about this place, and many have their own nicknames for it (I fondly called it "The Green Tablecloth Place").

It's the perfect place to go with a huge group of friends because service is fast, it's cheap, and it's consistent. They have all the classics, plus a decent selection of wines that are all cheap too, so this was our go-to spot anytime we didn't want to cook or we just wanted to get together with friends before going out for the night.


Over the course of our four months there we became almost regulars (sometimes I even went twice in one day, I'm ashamed to admit) and a fair amount of the waitstaff recognized us. It's in no way the best food I've eaten, but it will always have a place in my heart for being our comfort food and staple.


What to order: Pizza Bu Bu (margherita pizza topped with arugula, 4 euro), a bottle of Lancers Rose (10 euro), and tiramisu for dessert (3 euro)


Casetta di Trastevere: Cheap with Variety


Similar to Carlo Menta, this restaurant is cheap and always busy, and the food is always reliable. The pasta dishes are all about five to ten euros, house wine is cheap, and they have more variety on their menu (with dishes such as osso buco). The pizza isn't as thin and crispy as Carlo Menta, but it's a great little place thats decorated with cute clotheslines to make it seem like you're right in the middle of a little Italian neighborhood.

I went here a few times when I wanted to save some money but have a break from my regular place, and it never disappointed.


What to order: Penne all' Arrabiata (spicy tomato sauce, 5 euro) and a bottle of house wine (~6 euro)


Grazia e Graziella: Best Seat in Trastevere


I haven't already mentioned it, but the Trastevere neighborhood is the best place in Rome. It's where all of us abroad students lived and it's filled with quaint cobblestone streets and cute restaurants hidden down winding alleys. Both Carlo Menta and Casetta di Trastevere are in the heart of that neighborhood, but Grazia e Graziella has the best views of it.

During prime dinner or lunch hours, this place is PACKED. They have prosecco sitting on the host's stand to give to guests while they wait. I never waited for more than 10 minutes, but it's always nice to eat at a busy place. There's seating outside right on the street, with perfect views to observe all the interesting people passing by and absorb the feel of the neighborhood beneath some twinkly lights.

The food is all exquisite, with fresh, handmade pasta and tasty sauces, and the appetizers are to die for. A famous Roman dish is fried artichokes, and the ones I've gotten from here are AMAZING. I brought my mom here and once we tried them we were both blown away. This place is a must if you want to feel like a local in Trastevere and have a satisfying meal.


What to order: Tonarello con le Polpette (spaghetti & meatballs, 12.50 euro), Carciofo alla Giudia (fried artichokes, 5.50 euro), house wine (price varies, but you can get house wine for probably under 10 euro)


Spice and Wine: For the Romantics


Another favorite nestled in one of the alleys of Trastevere, Spice and Wine is a great little place that has a more intimate feeling while still having reasonable prices. I went here with all of my gal pals on Valentine's Day and it was adorable. The candles on each table are just candlesticks in old wine bottles, but they've been used so many times that theres a miniature mountain of multi-colored candlewax on each one. Candles aside, the ambiance is great and it feels homey and cozy inside even if it's busy.

The food is very yummy here, too, and cheap enough that coming here wasn't exactly a splurge. If you're a wine fanatic, they have an actual book full of the wines they offer, but I always go with the cheap house wine which to me is just as tasty as any other wine.


It's a quiet spot to enjoy a nice dinner and actually be able to chat since it's never too loud or busy. Put it on your list if you're wandering through Trastevere trying to find a bite to eat.


What to order: Penne all' Arrabiata (one of my favorite dishes, can't you tell?, 5 euro), house white wine (16 euro for the bigger bottle), tiramisu (between 3 and 5 euro)


Gino 51: People Watching Central


Surprise! Another restaurant in Trastevere! It seems repetitive and I know I lived in the area so I may be biased, but this neighborhood truly has the best restaurants for the best prices and it isn't too far from downtown but it has way less tourist traps to avoid.


Gino 51 was actually one of the first restaurants I ate at when I first got to Rome, and then I took my mom back here when she visited. We sat outside at a tiny little table for two and enjoyed our meal. Linda is on a "plant based" diet and she was able to find some yummy vegetarian options, while I kept indulging on meat sauces and pizza (I got her to cheat and try some of my food, don't worry).


This place is right on one of the busiest streets in the neighborhood so we were able to watch all walks of life pass us by, including the men that harass you to buy light up toys and local street performers looking to serenade you for a quick buck. Overall a great spot to sit and enjoy all that Rome has to offer: people, food, and drinks.


What to order: Margherita pizza (8 euro), rigatoni alla vaccinara (pasta stewed with oxtail and tomato sauce, 14 euro), Aperol spritz (Italian cocktail with Aperol, prosecco, and club soda; not sure of the price here)


Dar Poeta: The Place for Pizza


A tiny little restaurant (once again in Trastevere) known by locals and study abroad students as some of the best pizza available. I actually only came here once, but my roommates and friends went frequently and always gushed about their experience so I knew it deserved a spot on this list.

It's always jam-packed, so sometimes there will be a wait, but the variety and quality of pizza makes it all completely worth it. They have dozens of pizzas on the menu, and of course the option to customize anything with additional toppings or substitutions. Pro-tip: buffalo mozzarella on pizza is a game changer and I would recommend always adding this whenever possible.


What to order: like literally any pizza, customize toppings, add buffalo mozzarella and you will NOT be disappointed (10ish euros for pizza), for dessert get the Nutella calzone!


Scusate il Ritardo: Tourist Trap that's Actually Worth It


I HATE tourist trap restaurants and eating because you're hungry and it's convenient. I have gone on about this before (check out my tips for eating abroad here.) But when my mom came to visit me in Rome, we actually sought out a tourist trap.

We wanted to eat right beneath the shadow of the Pantheon, to be able to people watch, see the site, and enjoy a good meal. I would never recommend such a place unless it was actually superb, and this meal was, surprisingly enough.

We dined on fried zucchini, artichokes, vegetable risotto, and spaghetti al pomodoro, along with a couple of Aperol sprtiz's. The food was really tasty, definitely not the greatest food I had ever had, but it wasn't a disappointment at all. We left feeling satisfied and full, and having thoroughly enjoyed our time sitting next to the Pantheon after our long day of exploring the Roman Forum.

If you're looking to eat near one of the major historical sites in Rome, I would choose this place because the food is good, the location couldn't be better, and the staff was very friendly and accommodating.


What to order: Zucchini fritte, Roman artichokes, and any of the pasta dishes (everything ranged from about 8 euros to around 20 euros, so a little pricey but worth it for the location)


Osteria da Fortunata: The Best Pasta You Will Ever Eat


I saved the best for last. This restaurant is tucked on a side street right off the bustling Campo di Fiori a few minutes' walk from downtown Rome and the most famous ancient attractions. Campo di Fiori has a lively outdoor market every day until about 3pm, and all the restaurants in the square are busy tourist traps with the hosts harassing you to eat there. If you can avoid all of that commotion, there's a tiny place on the side street called Osteria da Fortunata.

In the window is an old little Italian lady hand-rolling pasta, probably to please tourists, but it also shows the pasta really is fresh, and that's what makes this place amazing.This is literally where I took every single guest that visited me, and the place I would tell anyone visiting Rome that they HAVE to go to.


I've had almost everything on the menu and I can't even begin to say which is my favorite. I would go back even if I couldn't eat pasta because the starters are just that good. Some standouts from the starters were fried artichokes (if it's in season) and caprese with buffalo mozzarella.


I'm honestly not going to even try to pick a favorite pasta dish, but they have a delicious bolognese, perfect carbonara, and one of the most unique and amazing dishes is gnocchi with red sauce and mozzarella, baked together in the oven and served still warm, bubbling, and gooey with melted cheese.

Basically, just go here because I can't describe how good it is.They have good wine, a busy atmosphere, and the most authentic feel you can get. I dream about this place any time I crave pasta.


 

So that's my list! There are obviously a million places to eat in Rome, some of them mediocre, some of them outstanding, but no matter what, Rome is a city of food and people who are passionate about food, so eat your heart out. ;)


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